On 21st September I was at Tegel airport when I received on my phone an email from N., an Urdu poet who runs a small clothes shop in Varanasi: “The judgment, you know, is coming soon. The situation is tense here. Closing my shop and taking the train to Faizabad. Hope nothing untoward happens this time.” The email, it appeared, had been composed in haste. The reason was obvious.
The judgment from a court of law! I gave a gentle laugh, shaking my head at the cruel impossibility of the idea of justice emerging from a decadent bureaucracy. Joseph K. knows about it very well, doesn’t he? I wish he were here to share the joke with me. But he had gone for a legal consultation after dropping me off at the airport. I kept waving back at him for a while—the devil looked dapper in his dark suit and black bowler hat.
At the airport, I was waiting for the boarding gates to open for my flight to Delhi. There was time yet so I called N. and, cutting short my plan to surprise him, I asked him to wait for me at the Varanasi airport the next day. He sounded worried but hearing my plan he agreed. “Thanks,” I said, my voice oozing with the controlled happiness of a shy man.
Having made the arrangement with N., I could relax a bit. I tried looking at the women in the lounge, just like in my youthful days at Madame Goldsmith’s establishment in Prague. Ah, those were the days, I chuckled heartily at my own lustfulness, now more a memory than a sensation in my decaying body. With age, the deeper realm of sexual life was already closed to me. Two rows ahead of me, I saw a short girl wearing glasses sitting on a plastic chair and reading a paperback. She had plump little legs. Seeing her, memories of Hedwig Therese Weiler came rushing back at me. I was in love with Hedwig. Little did I know then, and that was decades ago, that my life would be a series of disappointments in love.
Gregor who I was taking along to India jumped about inside the suitcase. Perhaps he was hungry. I dropped a few slices of cheese for him and kept the case steady on my lap. I pretended to read a newspaper while listening to the scratching that Gergor’s little limbs produced. That was not music to my ears but was still better than the noise that my sister used to make by rubbing a card between her teeth. My house was the very headquarters of uproar and even the doors screeched as though from a catarrhal throat. Between my house and the sanatorium, between company and solitude, honestly speaking, I always preferred the sanatorium, and of course, solitude.
What is it about the sanatoriums that perks me up—I don’t know. Is it the Teutonic order that attracts me or is it the luxuries of the establishment? Hard for me to figure out. Or maybe it is the Luftbader, the hydrotherapy, the electric light baths—all these apparatuses to treat neurasthenia that produces the sweetness one experiences in a relationship with a woman one loves. Ah, how I miss Zuckmantel!
Ten more minutes passed. I patiently waited for the gate to open—it was almost time but the Chinese girl at the gate was busy chatting on a phone. How insensitive! Is the plane going to be late, I wondered. A stream of men, women and children visited the toilets that were just about a hundred meters from where I was sitting. I too felt the urge to visit the toilet but then thinking of Gregor decided against it. Poor Gregor was having his dinner and it was not proper to disturb him in that state.
Finally, fifteen minutes past the scheduled time, passengers were allowed to board the plane. I set Gregor nicely in the overhead luggage compartment, made a last call to Dora and switched off the phone. Considering the long journey, I was already feeling dazed and sleepy.
The long flight felt like a time in the sanatorium, only with very little leg room. A fat airhostess in a blue dress (she reminded me of the hostesses at Madame Goldsmith’s who performed professional services for a set fee of ten imperial crowns in pre-war Prague) insisted that I had a nightcap. It would have been impolite to decline her offer. I had a cognac from a small plastic glass and soon after I dozed off like a good old man, watching parts of The Unbearable Lightness of Being between waking up and falling asleep. The film based on my fellow Czech writer Milan Kundera’s novel was almost like soft porn, with a sex scene thrown in every ten minutes. The only insightful moment in the film was when Daniel Day-Lewis, the doctor protagonist, talks about Oedipus Rex: how Oedipus, after unknowingly killing his father and sleeping with his mother, was filled with guilt at his unethical act; on the contrary, the Czech politicians didn’t feel any shame or remorse after having raped their own motherland and having sold it to the Russians; they could see everything but their own crime—that was the point Kundera seemed to make.
As the airplane floated through the night, I lost the sense of time. I was woken up by the fat airhostess just before we were to land in Delhi. As the plane descended, I nearly lost my hearing. My ears buzzed and rang with pain. After getting off the plane, I cleared immigration without any trouble and took a taxi to the domestic airport to catch the connecting flight to Varanasi. I felt overtired in my bones when I reached my final destination.
At Varanasi, the airport was crowded and people walked around without grace, defying the idea of serenity that one hoped would emerge from a divine Ganges flowing through the city and holy men taking dips in its water. N. was waiting for me at the reception, wearing a green cotton shirt and blue jeans. “Herr Kafka, so good to see you,” he said and wrapped me in his embrace. I was already feeling the warmth of Indian friendship. “So lovely to finally meet you N.,” I told my friend. N. and I, we had started off as pen friends and had progressed to the next stage, becoming phone friends. Now, don’t you think I’ve changed much—I’m still not gregarious, I’m still very much a misanthrope, but after meeting Max and Dora, I have opened up a little bit more to friends from strange shores. As I spend most of my time in sanatoriums, sometimes the loneliness becomes unbearable. After all, how much could one read Kierkegaard and Chekhov and Dickens? Dora had gifted me a cellphone and it was easy to keep in touch with my friends in the East, N. in India and F. in China. F. had helped me during my visit to China when I was researching for my story, The Great Wall of China.
So, finally I was in the heart of spiritual India—the fabled land of wisdom. We used to discuss Indian wisdom at “At the Unicorn”, the Prague salon of Berta Fanta where intellectuals such as Meyrink, Franz Werfel, Willy Haas, Max Brod, Rainer Maria Rilke and Albert Einstein would assemble. And how could I forget the Indian dance girl in Prague who provided me with a miracle of a Sunday.
Luckily no one recognized me at the airport, so we had an undramatic exit. I wanted to avoid the marigold garlands and the Hindu religious mark on the forehead. It was such a cliché for a tourist in India. It was hot and sunny outside and the air was redolent with the smell of Indian soil. I took some deep breaths, checking the air if it gave me any coughs. Thankfully, the air did not irritate my lungs. I was happy to be in a new place and yet I hated my body that was so weak and brittle. I needed to be cautious.
We had a train to catch to reach Ayodhya. N. suggested that we should eat something first. I could hear Gregor scratching the surface of the leather case indicating that he too was hungry. We stopped by a roadside eatery and had roti and dal, the least spicy food available there. I threw some breadcrumbs to Gregor. The bugger heartily consumed it. The smell of pure ghee on the roti created a sudden urge in me for the Prague butter. I miss it, I miss it everyday.
The train ride to Ayodhya in a crowded non-air-conditioned railway compartment was a reminder of the Eastern suffering, even cruelty, of many bodies packed in small spaces, in the cartography of claustrophobia. Outside the train’s windows, the countryside passed in a blur, like a girl undressing in haste—its outward silence and stillness a reminder of my incapacity. Gusts of wind, laden with fine dust, came through the windows and I began to cough violently. N. looked worried and pulled out a bottle of water from his bag. I took a gulp of water. “I’ve always felt it my special misfortune,” I told him, running a hand over my chest, “that I literally do not have the lung power to breathe into the world the richness and variety that it obviously has.”
As the train kept chugging leisurely, N. and I talked about life and business. “I admire you because you have a business, you are your own master” I told N. “Before joining Assicurazioni Generali, I had toyed with the idea of starting an asbestos manufacturing plant in Prague. Well, it was more my brother-in-law’s idea than mine. But it never worked out.”
“Do you regret it?” N. said, running his fingers through his hair. “Not being your own master?”
“I don’t know. Life is a mystery. It was not meant to unfold like that for me.”
N. sat there smiling by the coach’s window, his long curly hair swept up by the wind. He had a burnished face, his round cheeks puffed up with fat and muscle. My old cheeks were sunken, his was a young face. “But more than that business thing, you know,” I said, scratching my chin, “I admire you for your luck. You have a wife and a son. Marrying, founding a family, accepting all the children that come is the utmost a human being can succeed in doing at all.”
N. nodded his head and looked up, his hands in supplication, as if thanking God for bestowing mercies on him. Contrary to me, it was clear that he was a man of faith. “You never got married?” he said with an awkward smile.
“Unfortunately, I never had the good fortune of marrying and having children,” I said, sucking air that flowed through the window on my right. I looked out listlessly. Now, the train was pulling over at a station. The station was nothing but a cemented platform with a tin shade; a signal block and a small office for the station master with a ticket window punctuated the platform’s length. Vendors with tea kettles and fried food on trays ran through the train’s coaches hawking their merchandise.
“Do you want some tea Herr Kafka?” N. asked politely.
“No, actually, I am fine,” I said, fearing infection of some kind from consuming the hawker food.
Some villagers climbed into our coach and for a minute or so, the bogey came alive with murmurings. The new passengers found their seats or squatted on the train’s floor, after adjusting their luggage in the crooks between people’s legs. About two minutes passed, the train whistled and jerked into motion. A painful stillness descended.
When we got down at Ayodhya, a small ancient town with a Hindu mythological past, I was struck by its simplicity. It was a place that seemed to be content in its ordinariness, a featureless wasteland. Looking at its topography, the misalignment of structures, the smallness of its huts and buildings, the dirt and the dust, the idea of justice seemed asymmetrical to this place. The town seemed readymade to bear injustice and violence.
“This is Ayodhya where Lord Ram was born,” N. said, as we walked towards the controversial structure which was claimed by both Muslims and Hindus. The structure, which used to be a mosque built in the time of Mughal emperor Babur, looked like a mottled dolphin, torpedoed to death, lying lifeless at the bottom of the sea of hatred. “Ram, the hero of the legendary epic Ramayana, was a mariyada purush—a man of principles. When his wife Sita was rescued and brought back to Ayodhya after she was abducted by Ravana, people doubted her purity. Ram listened to what his people demanded and asked Sita to prove her purity by walking through a bed of fire. So judicious and public spirited that great man was.”
“Oh, how tormenting is that…to doubt love…love’s purity!” I thought.
As we continued walking through the streets, we saw police and army formations dominating the town’s streets. For a moment I thought I was at Checkpoint Charlie. It was neither easy nor safe for us to go near the disputed structure. At a distance, we stood under the shade of a peepal tree where some half-naked sadhus were drinking tea and taking puffs from a chillum. “Jai Shri Ram!” they greeted us. “Hi!” I said, surveying their grey and white flowing beards and admiring their shiny dark skin partly wrapped in saffron gears.
Gregor was jumping again inside the suitcase. I took out some cheese from my pocket and threw it into the case. He enthusiastically lapped up the food and expressed his gratitude by twitching his legs in the air.
“For nearly sixty years,” N. continued, “Muslims and Hindus have been fighting over this Babri Masjid-Ram Janmabhumi structure. After Independence of India, some Hindus suddenly developed a belief that Lord Rama was born at the same place where the mosque stood. So, in 1949, they forced themselves into the mosque and placed Ram’s statues under the mosque’s dome. In 1992, they demolished the mosque. Thousands died in communal riots that followed the demolition. Nobody was punished. Hindus and Muslims went to court claiming title over the land and now the judgment is imminent.”
“A judgment… a judgment…” the words rolled on my tongue. “What chance does a judgment have in the face of faith’s absolutism?”
I felt like telling N. about the Old Synagogue in Prague, the same synagogue that Hitler wanted to preserve as a mocking memorial to a vanished people. “You know N.,” I said, “the Nazis wanted to grind the synagogue to dust by destroying the Jews themselves. Here, it seems history is moving backwards. Watch out for the yellow patch for your people.”
A TV crew emerged out of nowhere and pounced upon us. A journalist wearing a kurta shoved a boom mic into my face. He seemed ecstatic at his foreign catch. “Who are you sir? A foreign journalist? From England? From America?”
I moved away from the TV journalist and turned my face, my hands clutching the rough barks of the tree trunk.
“No, no,” N. said, coming to my rescue, “he is not a journalist and he is not from England. Please leave us alone.” The sadhus, drawing their pot, waved at the journalist. “Jai Shri Ram!” they shouted jauntily.
Our intransigence emboldened the journalist. “Then who are you, sir? A tourist? A spy?”
“He is a writer,” N. said, joining his hands in a polite refusal. “From Germany. Now, will you please leave us alone?”
“Here is a writer from Germany,” the journalist looked toward the camera that was being carried by another man. “Roll the camera!” he shouted. “Here’s a writer from Germany…Gunter Grass…you must be Gunter Grass, sir, right, sir?”
The man strode nearer to me but I was being shielded by N. His back was toward me and he faced the TV crew.
“Gunter Grass…Gunter Grass…Tin Drum…Tin Drum!” the man shouted childlike, mock-drumming in the air, his eyes wild with excitement. The camera’s red eye was blinking under the gathering dusk of the peepal tree.
N. took me aside and we quickly left the scene. Gregor was silent—either he had sensed danger or had fallen asleep.
Next day in my hotel room in Varanasi, where I was registered as “Joseph K.”, I saw the judgment that was being covered live on TV. Gregor too was watching the news, hanging upside down from the roof—his favourite position. In an astonishing judgment, the three judges divided the disputed land in three parts, giving one part to Muslims and two parts to Hindus.
Hearing the judgment Gregor nearly fell down from the roof. This startled N., who was arranging last night’s dinner’s leftovers on a used newspaper for my companion. Gregor’s little limbs buzzed for a while and then he scurried to the leather sofa, making some animal noises throughout the run. He settled himself on the sofa near the window and fell silent like a ponderous sadhu.
N., who was sitting grave-faced in my room since morning, said, “This is no justice Herr Kafka.” His voice rumbled with excitement, his eyes were teary. “But Muslims had expected this. Good thing is at least there would be no riots, no bloodshed this time. But both the parties would not accept the verdict: they would go to the Supreme Court to appeal against it. Again, this monstrous issue would rest for 20-30 years to raise its ugly head in the future.”
For hours, our eyes were glued to the TV screen, following the TV studio debate. The anchor paraded a number of opinionated people who were hell-bent on justifying or invalidating the verdict.
“The judgment vindicates the Ram Janmabhoomi movement. This clears the path for building a grand Ram Temple at the site,” said a bald-headed politician who sported a grey toothbrush moustache.
“The view that the Babri Masjid was built at the site of a Hindu temple, where’s the proof for that? Now this view has been maintained by two of the three judges, but I must say that it takes no account of all the evidence contrary to this fact. One just has to study the Archaeological Survey of India’s site excavation reports,” said a historian with the obstinacy of a Soviet comrade.
“What is ridiculous is that no proof has been offered even of the fact that a Hindu belief in Lord Rama’s birth-site being the same as the site of the mosque had at all existed before very recent times, let alone since ‘time immemorial’,” said an agitated white-haired sari-clad woman.
“The judgment is yet another blow to the secular fabric of our country and the repute of our judiciary,” lamented a bespectacled gentleman in a safari suit.
“I completely disagree with this gentleman,” said a clean-shaven fair-skinned man, raising his fist in the air, “this is the best judgment there could have been; wise and secular.”
When I switched off the TV, I told N., “You know N., Lord Ram is so revered all over India. There are shrines devoted to him. But what about the thousands who have died due to the movement to build a grand temple at his birthplace? Will there be a memorial for them? Do you know how do the children of Germany remember the Jews who were gassed by the Nazis? Every school-going child is given the task to find out the biography of a Nazi victim. When the biography is ready, a plaque is made with the victim’s name on it and children go and bury it in the place where that person lived. I hope when your son grows up, he gets to live in a large-hearted India where victims of riots are memorialized like that.”
With these words, I sent a teary-eyed N. home. Before leaving the room, N. hugged me and bid farewell to Gregor who was still enjoying the fresh air wafting in through the window.
Next day, at the Delhi airport, somehow word got out and I was mobbed by journalists. There were dozens of them, hounding me like a pack with their cameras and boom mics.
“Mr. Kafka, what do you think of the judgment on Ayodhya?” they asked me in a chorus.
I stood by a wall and covered my eyes with my hands and rocking back and forth, I said, “I’m afraid of the truth…. One must be silent, if one can’t give any help.”
“But Mr. Kafka,” an aggressive-looking middle-aged male journalist asked, “Do you think it is unjust to build a temple where Lord Ram was born?”
I was feeling tired. The airport’s bright lights and flashes and sunguns from cameras made me uncomfortable. Then I remembered a Hasidic parable that seemed to suggest an apt answer to the question.
“How do you know young man,” I said, “what is more pleasing to God? Your temple after destroying a mosque or the suffering of those whose place of worship you destroyed?”
“Then what should we do?” asked a young journalist who, in her pleated hair, looked like a school girl.
“Leave the structure as it is. Incompletion is also a quality, a facet of nobility. It has a capacity for silence. At least, that’s what I do with my work.”
At my reply, the female journalist’s eyes twinkled, and her lips curved into a smile. I smiled back at her and waved my hand. Then turning away from the crowd, I pulled out my phone to call Dora that I was on my way to board the plane.
When a draft of this narrative was shown to Franz Kafka, he repudiated its authenticity. He only conceded that some of the dialogues were direct lifts from his diaries or were part of his reported conversations with his friends. He gave a hearty laugh after reading the draft, and said it was a joke of Borgesian proportions.
Published in two parts (part 1 here and part 2 here) in The Daily Star, Dhaka





